Dermaplaning vs. Chemical Peels: Which is Better?

ANNAZUR offers various rejuvenating beauty treatments - helping you keep your skin clean, beautiful and radiant. The most popular procedures include dermaplaning and chemical peels. These procedures may seem identical, but they have different indications, methods of execution, and results.

In this article, discover the difference between dermaplaning and peeling. Learn more about mechanical and chemical exfoliation, and which procedures are likely more suited for you.

What is Dermaplaning?

Esthetician

Dermaplaning is the cleansing of the skin with a special very sharp, thin scalpel (dermatome). It is used to remove the top layer of the epidermis along with its dead cells, impurities, and hairs.

To ensure sterility and safety, this procedure should only be performed by an esthetician. The procedure lasts only 20-30 minutes, and includes a final cleansing and moisturizing. The result is glowing skin, and facial skin that appears younger and rejuvenated.

Benefits of dermaplaning:

Instant improvement in skin texture.

Smooth, radiant, and healthy-looking facial skin.

Complete cleansing of impurities, dead cells, and peach fuzz.

The procedure does not require chemicals that can cause burns or allergies.

Increased effect of skincare products - creams, lotions, gels are better absorbed and penetrate deeper due to the removal of dead skin cells.

Easier and smoother makeup. The removal of dead skin cells, hairs, and impurities will help your makeup appear smoother.

Disadvantages of dermaplaning:

Short-lived effect. 3-4 weeks after the procedure, it’s recommended to repeat treatment.

Facial hairs (peach fuzz) grow back.

Not suitable for the treatment of acne, and may even aggravate the skin more.

Does not get rid of post-acne scars, pigmentation, scars or deep wrinkles.

May cause you to feel discomfort, and a tingling, burning sensation within the first 2 days of treatment.

You may lose your tan due to the removal of the top layer of epidermis.

Requires the active use of SPF.

Dermaplaning is suitable for those with:

Normal to dry skin.

Sensitive skin.

Skin with clogged pores and dark spots.

Women with accelerated growth of facial hair.

Pregnant and nursing mothers.

Please note!

Dermaplaning should not be performed if facial skin is inflamed due to blackheads, rashes, redness, eczema or psoriasis. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid procedures such as mesotherapy, botox injections and laser hair removal at least two weeks before and after dermaplaning .

What is a Chemical Peel?

Superficial chemical peeling in spa

Chemical peeling involves the controlled removal of the epidermis with the help of acids. This method boosts the restoration processes of your skin, collagen and elastin production, and encourages the growth of new cells. As a result, dead cells, pigmentation, and scars are removed. The skin appears younger, and feels firmer and tighter.

The type of acid used depends on the type of exfoliation:

Superficial. Lactic acid, almond acid, pyruvic acid, phytic acid, glycolic acid, or a combination of these are used. Only the superficial layer of skin - epidermis (fully or partially) is removed.

Midline. Trichloroacetic acid, salicylic acid or retinol, resorcinol are used. Not only the epidermis is removed, but also the middle layer of the skin - the dermis. The rejuvenating effect is more noticeable, but the recovery takes more time.

Deep. Phenolic acid is used. Performed only under anesthesia. Affects all layers of the skin. It gets rid of old scars, pronounced pigmentation (birthmarks) and deep wrinkles.

In addition to the acids themselves, the composition of each treatment includes components that soothe facial tissues and stimulate regeneration. These often include the extract of citrus fruits, medicinal herbs, antioxidants and vitamins (A, E).

Advantages of Chemical Peeling:

complete cleansing, renewal;

pronounced rejuvenating effect;

elimination of post-acne scars, expression lines, pigmentation;

stimulation of collagen and elastin production;

treatment of acne, acne, comedones;

cleansing the ducts of the sebaceous glands;

reduction of oiliness;

improving the structure, evening out the tone of the face;

increasing skin elasticity.

Disadvantages of chemical peeling:

Allergic reactions are possible;

in the first few days after the procedure there is redness, irritation, peeling;

recovery period is needed: up to 5 days after a superficial peeling, up to 3 weeks after a midline peeling, from 2 months - after a deep peeling;

medium and superficial face peeling are not suitable for people with sensitive, dry skin, superficial peeling is used with caution;

likely to aggravate dermatologic problems;

should not be carried out from April to October - during the period of increased solar activity.

Who is suitable for chemical peeling:

Women with oily, combination, problem skin;

if there are wide, deep pores, comedones;

if there is pigmentation, wrinkles, post-acne scars, scars, stretch marks;

people with uneven relief or facial tone;

girls with signs of natural or photo-aging;

in the loss of elasticity, elasticity, the appearance of flabbiness, sagging.

Please note!

Any chemical exfoliation is prohibited to perform at:

exacerbation of acne, herpes;

the presence of multiple moles;

any acute diseases and severe chronic pathologies;

the presence of wounds, cuts, scabs;

taking acne medications at the same time;

dry, sensitive skin prone to inflammation.

Peeling is also not performed if other cosmetic procedures are planned during the month before or after it.

Comparison of dermaplaning and chemical peels

Criterion Dermaplaning Chemical peeling
Exfoliation type Mechanical (blade) Chemical (acids)
Recovery time No 1 to 5 days (after superficial)
For sensitive skin Yes No (especially medium and deep)
Effect Instant but superficial Deep, prolonged
Anti-wrinkle No Yes (especially medium and deep)
Pigmentation control No Yes
Suitable for acne No, may aggravate. Yes, but with caution
Frequency Every 3-4 weeks Superficial - every 4-6 weeks, midline - every 3-6 months, deep - every few years

What to choose? Esthetician recommendations

The choice between dermaplaning and chemical peels depends on:

Your goals:

If you just need to make your skin glow and get rid of impurities, gunk - dermaplaning.

If you need to get rid of wrinkles, acne, scars, pigmentation - peeling.

Expected results:

If you need a quick effect without trauma and recovery period - dermaplaning.

If you need a pronounced effect for a long time - peeling.

Skin type:

If the skin is dry, sensitive, prone to inflammation - dermaplaning.

If the skin is oily, combined, prone to acne, clogged pores - peeling: superficial or midline.

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Ruzanna
17 years experience

For acne, pigmentation, and overall skin rejuvenation, Photodynamic Therapy (PDT) is the best choice. It uses light wavelengths and a photosensitizing agent to treat acne, reduce dark spots, and improve skin texture with minimal downtime.

If your skin needs post-extraction healing and bacteria reduction, High-Frequency Treatment is ideal. It kills bacteria, soothes inflammation, and speeds up recovery after extractions. Not sure? Our experts will help you choose!

Expert opinion and scientific sources

The effects of mechanical and chemical exfoliation have been proven by clinical studies. Thus:

The American Academy of Dermatology Association (AAD)[1] indicates that chemical peels remove dead cells, cleanse pores and sebaceous glands, and remove excess fat. All of this helps in treating acne, getting rid of black spots.

The Professional Beauty Association[2] cites a clinical study that reported improvement in the facial condition of a woman with eczema. After exfoliating the skin, external medications began to penetrate better into the deeper layers of the skin. As a result, the symptoms of the disease: itching, dryness, flaking, and irritation were significantly reduced.

The Journal Of Clinical And Aesthetic Dermatology[3] in its studies cites evidence that chemical peels stimulate the growth of collagen and new epidermis. This reduces the signs of aging. At the same time, melanins are distributed more evenly, which explains the mechanism of disappearance or significant reduction of age spots.

Conclusions: dermaplaning vs. chemical peeling - which one should you choose?

At first glance, dermaplaning and chemical peeling have the same effect - getting rid of keratinized cells, smoothing the relief of the face. But cosmetic procedures are very different in the way they are performed and the final effect. What will be better in your case - can be decided only by esthetician specialist, who will analyze in detail the needs, skin type, dermatological problems.

What will suit me - dermaplaning or peeling?

Leave this decision to an ANNAZUR specialist. Make an appointment for a free consultation at Organic Beauty Spa. Our esthetician will assess your skin type, determine indications and contraindications for a specific procedure. He will individually select the exfoliation that will best solve your cosmetic problems, improve your facial health, and reveal the natural radiance of your face!